Japan City Guide

Coucou, it's Estelle.

Welcome to my Japan city guide. The one I built city by city, meal by meal, during my last trip to Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. The one I keep coming back to whenever a friend texts me "I'm going to Japan, where do I eat??".

Japan is one of those countries that completely takes over you. The food is on another level, the culture asks you to slow down and pay attention, and even the smallest detail (the way a coffee is served, the way a door slides open) is done with so much intention. As a passionate foodie, I had been dreaming of this trip for years.

So when I finally went, I didn't want to do it like everyone else. I curated this guide with the help of local friends and Japanese chefs, including some with Michelin stars, who shared their own favorite spots with me. The places they go to on their day off, the ramen counters their grandparents used to take them to, the tiny bars hidden behind unmarked doors.

If you're planning your first trip to Japan, or your fifth, here is everything I wish someone had handed me before I went. Itadakimasu !

Why follow your Japan city guide?

A few honest answers to the questions everyone asks me.

Why follow your Japan city guide?

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Because it wasn't built from a single quick trip. I curated this guide with local friends and Japanese chefs (some Michelin starred) who shared their own favorite spots with me. The places that don't show up on the typical "top 10 Tokyo" lists, the ones you'd only know if you had a local friend there. Plus, only places I personally tested make the cut.

How many days do I need in Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka?

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For a first trip, I'd say a minimum of 10 to 14 days to really enjoy the three cities without rushing. A good rhythm: 4 to 5 days in Tokyo (it's huge, each neighborhood feels like a different city), 3 to 4 days in Kyoto (temples, gardens, slower pace), and 2 to 3 days in Osaka (foodie heaven, super lively). And if you have more time, add a side trip to Nara or Hakone.

When is the best time to visit Japan?

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Spring (late March to early April) for cherry blossoms, autumn (mid November) for the red maples. Honestly, both are magical, but also the busiest and most expensive. May and October are sweet spots: lovely weather, fewer crowds, and the cities look gorgeous. Avoid August unless you love heat and humidity (and the occasional typhoon).

Is Japan expensive?

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Less than you'd think. Day to day, food is incredibly affordable, you can have one of the best meals of your life for under 15€ at a ramen counter or a sushi spot. Where it adds up: flights, hotels in peak season, and the Shinkansen (the bullet train between cities). My tip: book your accommodation and JR Pass well in advance.

What's the best way to get around?

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Trains, trains, and more trains. The Japanese rail system is the most impressive I've ever experienced, clean, on time to the second, and goes everywhere. In each city, get a Suica or Pasmo card for the metro. Between cities, the Shinkansen is the way to go (and an experience in itself). Taxis are great but pricey.