Paris in spring really is my favorite time of year. The city comes out of winter: the trees fill with blossom and the terraces fill back up, with that energy that returns all at once the moment the first warm days hit. If you can choose when to come, come between April and June. Here's how I make the most of it.
The Parks, When Everything Is in Bloom
In spring, the Paris parks are at their best. The magnolias and cherry trees are in bloom and the grass has gone green again. It's the perfect time to lay down a blanket and not move. My favorites this time of year are the Jardin des Tuileries for its open feel and its big fountains, and the Jardin du Luxembourg with its green chairs where everyone comes to soak up the first ray of sun. And if you want something quieter and less touristy, head to the Parc Monceau, with its fake ruins and its faintly romantic air.
The Return of the Terraces
This might be what I love most about spring: the first meals outside, in the sun. The moment it's mild, Parisians head out to the terraces and never leave. For eating outside, here's where I go. Les Pères Siffleurs, a neighborhood bistro in the 15th with a lovely terrace on a quiet square and seasonal cooking washed down with good natural wines. Le Pavillon de la Reine, on the Place des Vosges, for tea time or a drink in a hidden courtyard garden, a real secret in the middle of the Marais. And Recoin, in the 11th, a modern bistro with a small terrace on a calm street, perfect for a lunch that runs long.
The Start of Ice Cream Season
Spring is also when the ice cream shops reopen, and I never get tired of it. My current pick is Folderol in the 11th, a hybrid place that's half ice cream shop and half natural wine bar, with flavors that change all the time and great pairings. Another favorite, JJ Hings over near the Canal Saint Martin, mostly runs in the warm months, so save that one for a summer trip. But from the very first mild days, an ice cream on a terrace is already pure happiness.
Museums with a Garden
And when the weather turns, because spring in Paris stays unpredictable, I love museums that have a garden. The Petit Palais, whose permanent collection is free, hides a pretty garden at its center with a café under the arcades, where you can catch your breath between rooms. And the Fondation Louis Vuitton, out in the Bois de Boulogne, is worth the trip as much for its exhibitions as for its glass building by Frank Gehry and the gardens all around it. Two ways to see art without ever feeling shut in.
It's All on My Paris Map
Spring changes fast in Paris, and the perfect plan often depends on the day's weather. The problem, once you're here, is not spending your time hunting for where to go depending on whether it's sunny or gray. That's why I built my Paris guide as a map.
It isn't just a list of addresses. Everything is pulled together in one place, my parks, my terraces, my ice cream spots, my museums, more than 600 places pinned on a single map you open in two seconds. You download it once and it works offline, so you don't need a signal or data to find your way or decide where to settle in at the last minute. You wander, you look at what's good around you, and off you go.
And you'll discover far more than what you came looking for. People often buy it for a few addresses, and they leave with hundreds of discoveries they never would have thought of. That's my whole goal: to help you experience Paris like a local, not like a tourist with a checklist.
The full map and its 600+ addresses, is right here:
And for all my Paris discoveries, come find me on Instagram: @ellevousguide